This trip was planned but then postponed back in the fall. The reason? We just didn’t have it in us after a very busy summer and a big trip in September, so we scaled back to something else and it worked out perfectly. This time around, we were counting down the days to pack up the car and hit the road. The destination wasn’t a quick one and when delaying the trip we didn’t take into effect that there would now be a potty trained child in tow, making a 4+ hour car ride even longer because of the additional pee breaks. It was 240 miles from our home in Portland to Lubec, the easternmost town in the continental U.S., famously known for the West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, located in the Quoddy Head State Park.

This visit to Quoddy Head was our 22nd state park as a family, even though the three of us stopped by three years ago when Eloise was only the size of strawberry. But to make it official, we came back. 

April 2016

On that trip we were out this way for a 2-day backpacking trip along the bold coast in Cutler, the lighthouse stop was brief and we didn’t explore the rest of the park. Funny to think that we keep returning to this spot with one in the oven. It is one the most magical parts of Maine and we have been itching to return to the area since our camping trip at Coobscook State Park.

We tried not to plan too much on this trip and allowed things to be more fluid. Life is easier and more fun that way, especially with a toddler. The only “must stop” we had lined up for the long drive out was lunch at Helen’s Restaurant in Machias. We didn’t hold back on this mid-day meal and even topped it off with a slice of their famous wild blueberry pie.

Probably the most naturally sweet pie that either of us ever tasted before and we could have easily had another slice without thinking twice. Your willpower will truly be tested as you’re forced to pay at the front counter, conveniently located near the display case filled with more pie.

Quoddy Head State Park is still another 45 minutes from Machias, but that comfort food set in just in time to knock Eloise out for a quick 30 minute nap along the way. This would be the only nap she’d take in the car during the entire long weekend, even with over 10 hours of driving. Somehow it wasn’t a big deal between books, coloring and toys…she is also known to bring her own entertainment on the road.

Yes, we ran over a median, desperately looking for food at one point. Maine is obviously loaded with tourists during parts of the year (for many good reasons) so we are used to seasonal places being closed during the off-season, but things REALLY close down out here. Apparently, it takes Memorial Day weekend for most businesses to come fully back to life.

It rained 100% of the way there but thankfully it started to switch to a light mist as we pulled into the park. Like many times before, during odd months or iffy weather, we had the park to ourselves. Yes, there were a couple cars sneaking a peak of the lighthouse from the parking lot but as for the state park grounds, it was like we were on private property. Having been in the car for a better part of the day, we made the decision to do some hiking before heading to the candy cane tower. The Coast Guard trial is the perfect toddler trail. It’s a 1 mile loop that showcases a bit of the woods and the coast. This is the first time we ditched the hiking carrier and had Eloise attempt the whole walk, and it was a good decision. Armed with her newly acquired walking stick, we hit the woods.

If you have never been to the bold coast then some of the pictures might appear filtered and our words could seem embellished. So here goes, within 100 yards from the trail head, it feels like you are walking into a Disney movie. Driving through this area is beautiful but taking any sort of hike is a must, no matter the length. We don’t have any formal botany training and a geologist does not tag along but we have never seen green look as green as it does on the ground here or have the slightest clue in how the trees survive the extreme weather conditions.

You don’t have to understand something to know it’s special and the bold coast is extraordinary. If our minds were on overload here, imagine a child’s. It might have been the slowest mile we’ve ever walked but that made it even better. With Eloise’s snowsuit now weighed down with her newest collection of rocks, we emptied out of the trail and headed straight for the lighthouse.

As the rain and wind started to pick up, Eloise was in no hurry to make her way over to the landmark. She was more excited to find an old toy truck that was left behind; which must have reappeared from the snow during the spring thaw. We might have told her that it belonged to a boy who lived in the lighthouse so she couldn’t take it home.

After checking out the lighthouse, we got those all important “eastern most” pictures in near the monument and then made our way to the car. Funny looking back that what we previously came here to do wasn’t a priority anymore and just felt like a check the box activity at the end of the visit.

There is a network of trails that we didn’t get to hike because of a combination of the weather and forgoing the hiking carrier for Dora the Explorer, but our guess is that it’s another 4 miles of what we hiked and that is just bananas. Crazy to think that a park in which most people come for the lighthouse, even some who don’t get out of their car, are missing out on the best parts. Guilty as charged! If you are leaving this state park in less than 2 hours, than you didn’t get your monies worth…okay, that’s a lie but you get the point.

On a day in which it was raining and not quite 40 degrees, this park came in at 8.5 Rubies for us. No there weren’t any swing sets or slides at this one but the trails were the perfect mix of family friendly and majestic.  Whales cruise by in the summer months, birds of all kinds hanging out with bald eagles being the norm on most days. Make it 55 degrees and toss in some sun, we think it could be a 9er.  

Check out the state pamphlet for the park map, history and cool details. Also note “nearby destinations”…Campobello Island here we come!

Haddock Chowder at Helen’s was a 10!